CNC Spoilboard Surfacing Router Bits, 1/2 inch Shank 2 inch Cutting Diameter, Slab Flattening Router Bit Planing Bit Wood Milling Cutter Planer Woodworking Tool by NITOMAK (Carbide)

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Would you get less tearout for example, if you work outside ->in, moving in a counterclockwise direction? Where are your hands intended to go and is one potentially in the path the router is trying to take it if this happens? Read more about the condition New: A brand-new, unused, unopened and undamaged item in original retail packaging (where packaging is applicable).

If you move the router lengthwise down the slab (with the grain), you are really cutting across the grain with the leading edge of the bit.

I have since gotten rid of the Triton and gone back to my Milwaukee routers plus one Makita RP2301FC plunge router which I really like. It is hard to tell from the picture of your entire workpiece, but the close up picture almost looks like the assembly might be sagging in the middle of the cut and digging in deeper. This would require the rails to be big and sturdy enough to still support the work piece while the router removes some material from them.

Unless you plan to turn the router off and let it spin down 2 every single time you want to inspect you'll be lifting off or pulling back the board while the router is running. Bear in mind also that fitting your router to the trammel box, or adapting the trammel box to the router will also come out of your hire cost.I can tell you from experience these are as robust and heavy duty as they come and the motor is 3HP which is great for heavy operations like surfacing or panel raising in the router table. Might get the Lee Valley kit or build a jig from scratch similar to the one suggested by Infinity Tools.

Use range suitable for woods, particle board, MDF, plywood compact panel, acrylic; Avoid cutting ferrous metal and non wood materials, iron, etc. International products have separate terms, are sold from abroad and may differ from local products, including fit, age ratings, and language of product, labeling or instructions. This would put a fairly small limit to your work piece, being about a quarter in area than your router table size (or at most half if you rotate the work piece around). It's unlikely you can get it perfect (although using clamping cauls can definitely help with this goal) but if you exercise particular care you may end up with a result flat enough that you only need to sand to flatten, rather than having to mill off 1mm or more. Since I'm retired and time isn't an issue, I make lots of lighter passes (less than 1/8") as opposed to hogging it out 1/4" or so at a time.

Finally, to fully flatten the piece all the way around, you'd need to route into the "rails" as well. When I was in an industry that hired lots of stuff, the going rate, for VERY expensive kit, (and the cheapest) was around 1% of the capital cost per day. Although that is at least 20 years old and second hand, it leaves a better finish than the brand new powerpkus did. You say 1/8" So that is an 1/8" from the very highest point, so much of the time you are cutting air?